The first thing to remember about your new foster hound is that he has probably never been for a car ride before. Jumping into the back of an SUV is a scary prospect for some hounds, and getting them to lie down in the back seat of a car may be downright impossible. You should not have any other pets with you when you come to pick up your foster hound. At this point, all of your energy should be focused on the hound that is feeling out of place.

When bringing your foster dog home for the first time, keep them on a leash. The introduction to the family pets is a time that demands caution. The best place to introduce your pets to your new student is outside, on neutral ground. Let your dog and the foster dog sniff each other; remember you are bringing a new dog onto your dog's territory. Do not leave your pet and foster dog in the yard together without supervision. Always put muzzles on while the hounds are turned out in the yard.

If you have a yard with a gate, remember to practice good gate security. If your foster gets out, nowhere will be familiar. Keep a good eye on your foster dog the first few days they are in the yard. Do not attempt to tie or tether your foster dog to a tree. Likewise, do not use a chain or pulley system. Greyhounds reach full speed in two strides, and they can break their necks when they reach the end of their rope.

If all seems calm outside, it is time to progress inside. It may be a good idea to keep your foster hound leashed for now, to help with any housetraining issues that may present. Let your foster dog wander from room to room, watching for any signs of trouble. Male dogs may be inclined to "mark" the new territory; a sharp "NO" will usually stop the activity.

When the foster dog meets the family cat for the first time, they will want to sniff the cat. If the cat runs and the dog begins to chase, a sharp "NO" should stop the pursuit. You may need to repeat this lesson until the dog understands that chasing the cat is not permissible.

Protect all other small animals by keeping them caged. Scurrying small mammals look like play things and could be injured or killed if a greyhound decides to play with them. Birds, even large parrots, can be hurt or killed by a curious greyhound. If the dog does not grab the bird, it may become startled enough to take flight and injure themselves against a window or wall.

You should provide a separate feeding area for the foster dog so there is no aggression at the food bowl. Feeding the dogs the same food in different areas will keep feeding time civil. Remember to feed the recommended high-quality food that our group supplied or recommends. A dog may also become possessive over a toy. If that occurs, remove the toy. When you must leave home, make sure that you separate your pet and the foster dog. Make sure that the crate for the foster is either in a different room your pet cannot enter or you can provide a sight barrier so that the crated animal does not become defensive.

Take a few moments at the end of each day to fill in and review the "Foster Dog Information Form" we provide. It will provide reminders of points to be made at the time of adoption.

The paramount duty you will face is housebreaking. The dog must learn that the house is not the turnout pen. During the first day, take the dog out often and accompany them on their "outings." Choose a word such as "potty" or "out" to associate with being let out for elimination and use it consistently. Dogs usually need to go after eating, napping, or exercising. The moment the dog GOES, praise him or her and perhaps offer him or her a treat.

Because of their regimented kennel life, Greyhounds will not give you a "potty" signal. Be diligent and watch your hound for pacing, whining, panting, or sneaking off. Be aware that greyhounds associate the leash with racing or exercise and not "potty" — some will not eliminate on a leash. A secure, fenced place is helpful with these dogs. Expect accidents!

Since these dogs have led KENNEL lives, things such as TVs, stairs, ringing phones, and other normal household sounds may startle your foster dog at first. Stairs can be overcome by moving one paw up a stair at a time. Gentle encouragement and treats can be used as an incentive for coming up and going down stairs. Going down tends to be more difficult. Hold onto the collar so that the decline is at a controlled pace.

Windows can be a difficult situation. A squirrel on the outside of a picture window or sliding glass door can be an attractive target. Taking a front paw and rapping on the glass or touching the dog's nose to a window pane is a good way of introducing a dog to this kind of barrier. With very motivated dogs, a piece of tape may have to be placed on the window to impress upon the dog that there is a barrier present. Mirrors or reflective surfaces can be confusing as well, so watch your dog.

When you leave your house, it is appropriate to leave your foster in a crate to keep everyone safe and secure. The dogs are used to this, and they do not find it upsetting to spend time in one.

Since historically, most people have an eight-hour work day, most dogs can accommodate this period of time. If possible, having someone let the dog out at a halfway point is desirable.

Part of the job of fostering is to handle the dog. Touch their feet, ears, tails, and other areas to check for sensitivity. Some dogs do not want these areas handled, and it is a good idea to know so that the adopting family can work with this. If the dog seems sensitive to touch and not showing signs of aggressive behavior, praise the dog while touching the sensitive spots.

Watch for signs of track dreaming. Remember to call the dog into an awake state before touching. Letting a sleeping dog lie is a good rule of thumb.

Your foster dog does not have to spend the night in a crate. Placing a comfortable dog bed or blanket on the floor in your room (with door shut or gate at the door, so the dog cannot wander at night) is the best way to teach your dog his bedtime. Inviting them into bed is a bad habit to start, because the adopting family may not want the dog in bed with them. Likewise, instead of letting them on any furniture in your home, restrict your foster dog to a soft dog bed or blanket on the floor. It will make life easier for the adopting family.

Another thing to evaluate is the foster dog's personality. Adoptive families rely on us to tell them about their dogs.

Since many greyhounds are second pets, it's beneficial to know how social the dog is. Dominant behavior and how the dog plays with other pets are good clues as to how a dog will do with other animals. Guinea pigs, hamsters, rabbits, birds, and other small animals may or may not attract the dog's attention. It is a good rule of thumb to keep these animals confined and out of harm's way. If you have a cat, watch to determine whether the dog and cat are getting along and that the dog does not seem over-interested. Never put a cat in the yard with a greyhound! Not even a cat-friendly greyhound can be trusted outside.

Children and greyhounds must be supervised at all times. These dogs are usually very good with children, but things happen, especially with inexperienced children. If you must leave the room, take the child or the dog with you. Your foster dog may need some time to adjust to family life. Most are playful and enjoy children; however, a "time out" spot for the dog should be found. The dog should be able to go to this area and be left alone. Children should respect this area and should NEVER disturb a sleeping dog. Wrestling on the floor and tug-of-war games can escalate into dangerous situations. The dog is bigger and stronger than a child and should NEVER be underestimated.

Sometimes a dog can try to control his situation through intimidation. A dog on a couch who snarls and shows teeth can be removed by placing a leash on the dog and using a stern "OFF!" command. There is a fine line between aggression and bluff. If you are in doubt about the dog's behavior, consult a Greyhounds Only representative. In most cases, this can be dealt with before there is a major problem. If necessary, use a muzzle if you think the dog will snap or bite. Report any biting or aggression incidents immediately (complete with all information) to us at (847) 421-9828.

A shy greyhound needs to learn that he or she can trust you. Patience and reassurance are the best ways to deal with these animals. In time the dog will learn that their situation is friendly and that no one will harm them. Negative reinforcement should NOT be used on greyhounds. A verbal reprimand, if needed, is all that is required.

When walking a foster dog on the street for the first time, WATCH CAREFULLY! There are many new sounds, sights, and smells for the dog to experience. Make sure that the collar is properly fitted before stepping outside. HOLD ON TIGHT and watch what is around you. Squirrels, cats, birds, and small dogs can attract your foster, and they may want to chase. Cars can frighten them, and they may bolt or jump backwards. Walking a foster dog should not be relaxing for you. It is a learning experience for the both of you.

Car trips can be a fun part of a pet's day. Your charge should be riding in the back seat, and in time he will relax, lie down, and enjoy his trip. A leash should be on the dog so that when your trip ends, he can be taken out of the car safely and easily. Never leave your dog in a car on very warm days or even cold days.

Diarrhea is a common ailment of recently retired greyhounds. There are shifts in routine, diet, and surroundings. These things are upsetting to the dog's digestive system. Parasites can also cause diarrhea, and you may see worms in the dog's stool. Don't panic! Call a Greyhounds Only representative, and they will be able to assist you. The dogs are usually dewormed before they come to you, but sometimes a second treatment is required. In the case of non-specific diarrhea, a diet of rice and chicken can help the "runs" go away.

If you are fostering a "special needs dog," follow the veterinarian's orders carefully. This dog is usually under a vet's care for a serious condition or injury. You may be called on to take the dog for periodic vet appointments. You should consider this when agreeing to foster a special needs dog. Greyhounds Only takes care of medical bills while the dog is awaiting adoption and until the dog is healed.

If there is an emergency, consult your Greyhounds Only representative. Some injuries may look bad but do not need veterinary care. In the event of serious injury, we will ask that you take the dog to a vet. We work with vets that specialize in broken legs and other greyhound conditions, so please contact us for guidance if something goes wrong.

Once your new family member has been selected, you can then plan for your greyhound to be home within two to four weeks. The time frames can vary based on veterinary appointments, recuperation, and foster family availability.

Some greyhounds exhibit "resource guarding," which is when the dog becomes defensive over food, a treat, a toy, an area, or even a person. The dog may warn you with a growl. If a stern "NO!" doesn't help, try trading something of value (a special treat such as cooked chicken, a better toy, etc.) for whatever the hound is guarding. When your foster agrees with the trade, praise them! Dogs usually outgrow this behavior when they realize that there is no competition for the item. Always be careful when trying to retrieve something a dog is guarding. Never worsen a situation by chasing the dog or trying to wrestle an item out of its mouth. This can escalate the resource guarding behavior.

In the event that your cat-friendly dog is NOT cat friendly, do not attempt to train the dog to get along with your cat. Call a Greyhounds Only representative and keep the dog and cat separate.

If your foster gets loose, call the local police, and call Greyhounds Only immediately. The dog should be wearing a properly fitted collar with a Greyhounds Only tag on it at all times.

In the event of a dog fight, do not attempt to break it up! Spraying the dogs with a water hose usually does the trick. Assess the damage after gaining control of the dogs and provide first aid as necessary. This is not a common occurrence. We recommend using muzzles at all times when a hound is in the foster home.

The kitchen is one of the first rooms the dogs learn about. Human food is small and yummy-tasting. Giving dogs human food leads to begging. Don't fall for those big brown eyes and start a bad habit! The best treats to give are treats made for dogs. They are made with a dog's digestive tract in mind and are easy on the dog's stomach. Remember not to over-treat!

Your first meeting with the foster dog's adoptive family is usually over the phone. They will want to know what the new member of their family is like in your home.

Be truthful about the dog, tell funny anecdotes, and disclose any problems. Let them ask questions and give them full answers. Once the adoption is arranged, you will need to accompany the dog to their new home, and help your foster into their new life at the adoption.

After the adoption, it is your responsibility to call the family and check on the dog's progress. Remember that you know what the dog is like and how he or she behaves. The adopting family may need help "seeing" things from the dog's perspective. If there is a problem, please contact us at (847) 421-9828. You can also email foster@greyhoundsonly.com with any questions you have.

Be ready to help talk the adopting family through problems and visit if necessary. Although you may miss the dog, realize that they are getting love and attention and that they have a good home. The dog will remember you when he sees you at a later time, and you will be amazed at how happy they are.

Now you're ready for your next foster dog....